Takuan (沢庵)

My favorite tsukemono, or Japanese pickle, are daikon slices, which come in all kinds of bright, fun colors.

30 something...diversity in the Japanese diet

Are you eating enough? As the vast majority of modern society worries about eating too much, such a question may seem a bit strange. Though quantity is rarely a problem for people in most developed nations, when it comes to quality, some of your favorite meals may be seriously lacking in substance. As far as diet diversity is concerned, certain people might even consider you to be seriously deprived.

Recently, after checking out the local library's copy of Everyday Harumi, a Harumi Kurihara cookbook recommended by my foodie friend, I was confronted by my own alimentary inadequacies. At first, there was nothing particularly remarkable about Kurihara's introduction to her food philosophy. Like most famous cooks, she had penned a predictable ode to fresh ingredients, artful tableware and the warmth of a family dinner table. Then, just as I was about to turn the page and read everything I ever needed to know about quick and easy tofu, an incredible statement caught my eye.


"Many of my western friends are surprised when they hear of traditional Japanese thinking of variety in eating," Harumi began, "We think that you should eat around thirty different types of food a day."

Thirty?! I was quite certain I couldn't compile a list that long if I were to empty out the contents of my entire refrigerator. Just to be sure that Harumi was not, in fact, having a laugh at the expense of gullible gaijin everywhere, I crosschecked this conventional wisdom with some other sources and discovered that she was not merely spouting off old wives' tales to sell new books. For the first time ever, it occurred to me that my diet was woefully homogeneous. I took a moment to reflect on my meals that day.

For breakfast, there had been a granola bar with soy milk. Did my coffee count? Mid-morning, there was a banana with peanut butter. For lunch, a salad topped with roast beef slices, slivers of bell pepper and shreds of red onion. After that, some leftover rice and tofu from the night before. Even if the added sprinkles of gomashio and soy sauce were legitimate contenders, my total for the day was still hovering in the teens. There was only one meal (and, let's be honest, a midnight snack) to go!

Unfortunately, dinner could not save me from an insufficient intake. Chicken stir fry with noodles tacked on four or five more raw ingredients. Though hot chocolate was a factor in my late night activity, I scarcely think Ms. Kurihara would have been impressed by something with such insignificant nutritional value.

I was now under 30 in more ways than one.

Having been raised in America at the peak of political correctness, I have always prided myself on the amount of diversity in my life. I enjoy a range of multicultural friends, draw fashion inspiration from girls across the globe, and fill my bookshelves with international authors both famous and relatively unknown. Apparently, my affinity for breakfast cereal and simple sandwiches had left me far more narrow minded than I ever realized.

The next morning, I attempted to progress by throwing some pineapple and orange slices into the mix. I started to make headway at lunchtime, though, when everyone in our office celebrated something I cannot remember with a special occasion obento. Whoever had been put in charge of the order chose a combination that went a long way toward elevating my status as a successful eater. As far as I could tell, it was comprised of rice, shrimp, cabbage, sesame sauce, a glazed meatball, katsu (a breaded pork cutlet), a sweet potato, salmon, egg, konnyaku, pickles, daikon, a carrot and a satoimo. The accompanying miso soup brought the meal count to at least fifteen items. The magic number was only a slice of supreme pizza away...

In the living room later that night, I reflected on all the ways that Japanese cuisine enhances the quality of a meal without necessarily increasing the amount of food being eaten. I thought about the myriad small dishes, the constant presence of soup, the emphasis on fruits and vegetables, and the serving of many small proteins, rather than a large portion of one. Then, there were herbs and aromatics to consider. Had I really left out dessert? Sadly, I became so enthralled in the planning of more sophisticated sustenance that I barely had any time to actually cook. I eventually returned Everyday Harumi to the library without trying a single one of her recipes.

Of course, I have not given up on finding nutritional nirvana. It just has to wait until I can afford more groceries!

et un peu plus tard...

...il a trouvé cette jolie fleur!

Veggie bento

Jake had a whole afternoon to himself while awaiting my arrival in Kyoto one Saturday. He surprised us both by going for this super healthy lunch box and enjoying it in the sunshine by the Kamo River. Among the easily discernible ingredients: carrot, kabocha (カボチャ, a Japanese pumpkin equivalent), bean sprouts, edamame (枝豆), maitake (舞茸) mushroom slivers, satoimo(里芋), nasu (那須, Japanese eggplant), a boiled chestnut, and a cube of tofu. Beautiful!

P.S. I know I omitted some items, but we can't figure out what they were...help?

Iconic Japanese hair

Some more classic follicular stylings for the uninitiated.

On your mark!

Perhaps you have noticed the abundance of rubber stamps lurking in random places all across Japan. From the shadowy corners of famous train stations to the celebrated entryways of national monuments, there is usually a special, rubberized carving provided for the commemoration of almost every excursion. They tend to appear in the most unexpected places: behind forgotten benches at Narita airport, tucked underneath the "Coming Attractions" posters at dingy movie theaters, scattered across stone slabs at natural parks, collecting dust in the local library...

Upon discovering any new stamp, I feel an irresistible urge to press it into its accompanying ink pad and make a memorable mark on the nearest scrap of available paper. Childish though my compulsion may be, it has turned out to be a rather lucky habit. Stamps have helped me score far more than mere souvenirs on several occasions.

I give you, the Japanese Stamp Rally.

Simply put, a stamp rally is a scavenger hunt for stamps. Few clues or maps are provided to help you, although pinpointing their whereabouts is hardly a challenge. Stamp rallies might be held anywhere, at any time, but are likely to be found in places of commerce around holidays and other festive times. Usually, a customer service representative will approach you as you enter the building in order to encourage participation. Sometimes, you might not realize what is going on until you notice stamps popping up in surprising places. First, get your hands on one of the blank brochures provided by the rally sponsor. Then, as you tour the facilities and browse the goods on each floor, keep an eye out for different stamps. When your brochure is filled up, the quest is complete.


So...why bother? While this whimsical search might possess an innate value for the sentimental and easily amused, others may regard it as an utter waste of time, sure to result in unnecessarily clogged aisles and escalators. These critics will further assert that, by participating in such an endeavor, you are willfully playing the role of the pawn in a childishly contrived marketing tactic masquerading as innocent fun. The stamp rally is guilty on every charge, except for one. In the end, it might actually prove to be well worth your time. Your patience and capitalistic complicity could lead to some interesting rewards.

Upon completion of the rally sheet you are immediately eligible for a little in-house raffle. Show your stamps to an employee and you will be asked to reach into a special box crammed with tickets or tokens. Each trinket is equivalent to a certain type of prize. Depending on your luck, you can either walk away with a piece of insignificant junk or something for which you might have actually paid money. Among the eclectic array of items I have accumulated over time: a poinsettia, lavender seeds, a body pillow formed to look like Hello Kitty in a frog suit, and tickets to the Sony Explora Science Center.


More importantly, my friends and I have had some really good times running around in public like little kids. Sometimes stamp rallies help you notice things (pop-up art exhibits, especially adorable babies, cool design, innovative new gadgets, free screenings of short films, cute employees and strange fellow shoppers) you might have totally ignored under normal circumstances. Shopping, and adult life in general, can be such a stressful blur. A lot of us tend to rush around from one place to the next without fully absorbing or enjoying the present moment. When you take the time to look for something in particular, different aspects of your environment are often illuminated in unexpected ways.


Next time you stumble upon a stamp rally, consider going ahead and joining in the fun. You may get a lot more out of it than you think!

Wagashi

A colleague who recently traveled to Kyoto made sure to bring back some customary omiyage for the rest of us. I was so excited when I arrived at work to find these little balls of soft, glazed, sugary goodness on my desk. One was shaped like a little kaki, or Japanese persimmon, and after a pleasingly substantial chew or two, it slowly melted and disappeared (below) . Japanese confectionery, or wagashi, is as glorious an experience for the eyes as it is for the tastebuds.

style for a SONG

For all the talk of inexpensive silk and handmade sandals that are easily available in Vietnam, my favorite boutique was a far cry from the crowded markets swamped with tacky tourists in rice paddy hats. I got the sense that some people were happy to find cheap, fast fashion, no matter what it looked like or how it felt. Usually, the wares on display were hardly the sort of thing a discerning shopper would covet, yet many foreigners were buying in bulk. Once I stepped inside the Hoi An outpost of SONG (a French-designed, Vietnamese eco-conscious fashion label), I finally felt excited about clothes again.


SONG elevates the shopping experience in Vietnam, utilizing native materials and local talent. It is not a treasure trove of statement pieces, but rather a reliable resource for the chic globetrotter who needs nice basics which travel well. The organic cotton, subdued palette, and airy cut of the pieces emphasize its philosophy of true quality and modern comfort. When I later discovered the brand had been featured in Vogue, it made me happy to know that its designer, Valerie Gregori McKenzie, was enjoying some well-deserved success.


Even Jake enjoyed it there, finding himself irresistibly drawn to a luxuriously soft long sleeve tee that would keep him warm as we traveled north to Hanoi (below). Speaking of Hanoi, of course Little Sister and I had to check out the branch there as well. Though the merchandise was equally intriguing, nothing could top the breezy, tropical feeling of the bohemian boutique in ancient Hoi An. This tiny difference did not, however, prevent us from romping about in the upstairs dressing room like characters from a colonial production of Romeo and Juliet (right). We reveled in the floaty fabric of the summery dresses. The puffy shoulders and gauzy fabric coupled with the exotic cotton bedding and metallic, overstuffed cushions provided the perfect setting for some impromptu Shakespearean fun.

Udon carbonara with mentaiko

Some friends of ours invited us to eat at their favorite organic restaurant one night. On the way, there was endless chatter about how light and healthy all of the ingredients were, and how light and healthy we would feel after the meal. We were totally shocked, therefore, when we arrived and found ourselves being cajoled into ordering the pasta carbonara, an entree that might qualify as one of the weightiest foods known to man.

The Japanese appreciation for Italian food is evidenced by the incredible ease with which one can find things such as penne arrabiata, ciabatta, panna cotta, and unbelievably good gnocchi, even on small town menus. What's more, their technique tends to honor the tradition. Pasta is usually cooked perfectly al dente and the sauces, though not overwhelmingly rich, are full of satisfying flavor. So much for eating right, we thought, taking solace in the fact that our dinner would be delicious.


The pasta turned out to be udon, and the sauce itself was garnished with mentaiko, or spicy cod roe. It was addictive from the start, and every single one of us ended up cleaning our bowls. True to his organic code of ethics, however, the chef used only the best ingredients he could find and, miraculously, we felt rather springy for a group of people who had just devoured a ton of noodles. So unhampered by our full bellies were we that the next stop for us was a surprise session of midnight bowling and purikura making.

Clash of the Patterns

This Kyoto kid's look was so crazy, even the camera couldn't focus! He was an amazing contrast to the spartan aesthetic of Ryoan ji, a temple that is home to one of Japan's premier Zen rock gardens. My own outfit was considerably more subdued. It was not until later that I realized just how much I had managed to blend in with our surroundings.

A wise notebook once said...

"For the life that is ordinary with fabric of a dear sweet square & circle an accent."

Once I decipher this cryptic philosophy, I will surely feel much better about my mundane existence.

Thanks, 100 ¥ store!

(photo credit: Little Sister)

A bagel and a cup of collagen to go, please!

A Japanese beauty trend involving the consumption of copious amounts of collagen laden food has been gaining fame abroad. Both the New York Times and the Daily Telegraph of London ran stories on the concept this month, exploring its merits and citing Japan's famous propensity for fads as a probable cause. Perfect skin seekers in this country have been taking the inside out approach to soft, clear faces for some time now. While many companies are reporting steady sales, some researchers are snorting at the alleged benefits of such products, painting an "Emperor's New Clothes" patina on the whole phenomenon. The Japan Times recently quoted one expert's withering assertion that "consumers are not scientific", a thinly veiled statement of condescension if there ever was one. Regardless, the collagen ingestion club continues to welcome new members every day. Of course, the idea of nutrition contributing to overall physical health is as old as the hills. So, too, is strategic eating in the pursuit of specific benefits. How many times have mothers implored children to drink their milk or eat their carrots? The one difference might lie in the shift of priorities, as yesterday's hopes for strong bones and sharp eyesight have been replaced by flawless face fanaticism. Case in point: a recent girl's night out at a popular yakitori-ya.

"Have you tried their tsukune?" Rie asked me.

"Yeah, but I didn't love it," I answered quickly, "Too much cartilage, so chewy!""

"Are you crazy?" she exclaimed. "Let's get two orders!"

"Um, ok, I guess you like cartilage?"

"Not really, but it's got heaps of collagen and I want better skin."

Later on, following an especially sweaty dance class, a bunch of friends and I headed out for refreshment. It was a different night and a different crowd, but the star ingredient was the same. Everyone ordered some version of a sour with an added injection of collagen. I asked them if they really thought it was going to make a difference and they were all surprisingly hopeful. In retrospect, I suppose sipping my way to perfect skin shouldn't have seemed any more ridiculous than the fact that I had just hit up the gym and was now attempting to rehydrate with a cocktail.

Only the passage of time can prove whether or not these little bits of alleged goodness will all add up to the ageless visage we all crave. In the meantime, the philosophy of eating to improve one's appearance is certainly an improvement over the starvation diets that have been de rigeur for the past few decades.

So, what's your strategy for saving face?

Tokyo street fashion

The Tokyo fashion scene does not lack for coverage, but a new website I discovered takes an interesting mathematical angle on all the craziness. While running around Shinjuku (新宿) one day, a beautiful, stylish girl with thick, black glasses, perfect, short red nails and a killer angled bob stopped me to ask if her photographer could snap some shots of my outfit. Just the look of K convinced me that the whole thing was legit, but during the interview that followed, I grew to really like her and couldn't have been happier to help. As a fashion editor for ACROSS Street Fashion Marketing, her job is to scout out trends on the ground. She directs her photographers to document recurring themes and occasionally stops certain inviduals to do profiles on their entire ensembles. She said she was initially interested in my suede, over-the-knee boots since that footwear trend was being highlighted as their count item of the month. By the end of the thirty minute chat, we had discussed everything from the origins of my bag (a beloved birthday gift from Jake) to where I bought my pink, plastic digital watch (purchased prior to our China trip, when I was looking for something that could handle several wet and dirty weeks on the road). What makes this website interesting is the way it breaks fashion down into figures. A count is kept for how many times a featured item is spotted in Tokyo on a given day. That data is then further analyzed according to neighborhood and gender. The month that I appeared on the site, there was even a special section created for foreigner fashion. Check it out if you are curious about the everyday runway situation in a capital crammed with unique style.

Life imitating art imitating Communism

Like any other country on this planet, Vietnam has issues. It is not simply the kingdom of sunshine, seashores and spring rolls. The social, economic and political reality of its society is inescapable, no matter how swank your accommodations. Beyond the airports, hotel rooms and fancy restaurants, there is a developing nation full of people who can only observe as tourists enjoy virtually unlimited access to a land that is supposedly theirs. The motorcycle phenomena, though culturally unique and moderately entertaining, also crystallizes the way of life many people have no choice but to lead. Entire families squeeze onto narrow, albeit unusually long seats, subjecting infants and toddlers to a steady stream of exhaust fumes on a daily basis. Most, if not all adults, wear helmets, but as this photo above shows, the ones who need them most rarely sport them. It was unclear to us whether this could be attributed to expense, a lack of child-size helmets, or insufficient law enforcement. As the ubiquitous propaganda posters such as the one pictured here suggest, great emphasis is placed on protecting the "group", be it one's family or society as a whole. Unfortunately, this philosophy does little to address the needs of individuals who find themselves in unique situations.

JAL 1, ANA 0

As if the 1970's seat upholstery and overall cramped conditions of the cabin were not enough, ANA totally lost the airspace race to greatness with this meal served on our on our way to Ho Chi Minh (above). American crackers? Really? I find it hard to believe they couldn't scrounge up some authentically Japanese senbei anywhere prior to departing (from Japan). Besides that, everybody knows that bread on a plane is basically a lost cause unless it is at least somewhat warmed up before service. I know they were trying with the mini Camembert. Unfortunately, since the roll was too cold, the only way to enjoy it was to carve out a little burrow for the cheese and eat the whole package like a stiff, dry a pig in a blanket. Anyway, it paled in both taste and presentation when compared to JAL's relative masterpiece last summer (below). On the plus side, the pilot competently transported all of the passengers on board after seven, relatively turbulence-free hours of flight. Perhaps I should keep things in perspective.